I've been writing blog posts I never bothered to post for years. Now that I'm trying to clean out my computer (it actually notified me that I was out of space, if you can believe that!), some of them will find their way here. I wrote this one on November 10, 2008. If you're planning a trip to the "dry side" of the Big Island, it might be helpful.
There are a lot of obvious signs that you have arrived in Hawaii. Seeing the peak of Mauna Kea or the green slopes of the Kohala Range are the first. As the plane descends and you look down on endless miles of dark, foreboding lava, lined here and there by deserted beaches, a thin line of palm tress, and the brilliant Pacific Ocean, the contrast is so striking that no one would be surprised if you asked, is this really Hawaii?
The Kailua-Kona airport at Keahole is also a contrast with the expected. Like something out of an old, black and white movie from the 40s, They roll steps up to the plane, you step out into the bright sun, then look up to behold the mammoth volcano known as Mauna Loa. It is immediately clear why they call this the Big Island.
For me, the real confirmation that I have returned to Hawaii follows less than a minute and twenty yards later. The distinctive and soothing sound of Hawaiian doves greet me as I enter the open air terminal. Aloha. Everything that might concern me back home seems less significant. It is nearly impossible to begin thinking that I might like to live here.
This being our eighth visit, we know the routing well. Our bags will take some time to reach the crowded little baggage claim area, also an open air facility, so Elena stays behind to collect the bags and I run ahead to rent a car. Rates here are moderate, but the taxes and concession fees outrageous. This is the year I commit to rent from a local agency in town. As this will be our longest stay yet, over three weeks, we’ll have the time to try things differently.
Being this close to Kailua-Kona, known locally as just “Kona,” we head south first to see the town and retrace the steps from our first trip twelve years ago. We arrived at night in 1996, so we missed the newcomers’ initiation of driving miles through ominous fields of lava, but could not escape the test of the Hawaiian language. Most people are familiar with simple, four-letter names like Kona, Hilo, and Maui, and they have probably mastered Honolulu. After that, they are oblivious to the tongue-twisting challenge of how Hawaiians combine the 13 letters in their alphabet to create a unique language that still lives in the islands.
While nothing remains the same, more seems the same here than has changed since we last visited in 2006. Two obvious changes are the new and wider roads in Kona, together with a new shopping center just north of town. Less obvious, at first, but then alarming, are the many restaurants and stores that have closed. The weakening economy has hit tourism hard here. Even the Chart House and Hard Rock are gone. And if they’re serving breakfast at Bubba Gump Shrimp Company, you know times are tough (actually, I’m glad they are. This used to be the Jolly Roger, and there was no more beautiful view in Kona to enjoy your breakfast by).
We drive along the nine-mile stretch of Alii Drive and pass Kona By The Sea, the first condo we ever rented. We still hold pleasant memories of the place. The two public beach parks, nick named Magic Sands and Turtle Beach, are not nearly as crowded, but still clearly popular.
Creatures of habit that we are, we are drawn south through the small Hawaiian towns of Kainallu, Kealakekua and Captain Cook (OK, there’s one of the few easy ones to say), on our way to one of our favorite “cheap thrills” on the island, the Mac Nut Factory. We learned of this place back in 1996 from one of locals that was hawking timeshare sales, and have never failed to return. The trick, we learned, was to buy their “over-roasted” macadamia nuts for half the price. Over the years, we actually grew to prefer them that way (and could never complain about the price). The secret, though, is to arrive on Tuesday. Alas, we arrived a day early and left empty-handed, except for a bag of chocolate-covered mac nuts. Ono! That’s what they say here when it’s a good thing.
Groceries and Dining on the Big Island
Our first, real work here was to “stock up” for our 25-day stay. Food is a little different here, even at the Safeway in Kona, which is a national chain. The two local grocery stores are KTA and Foodland. They’re in Kona, Hilo and Waimea. Just blocks from our condo there’s the Waikoloa Village Market. Because it captures so much of the tastes of Hawaii, this is really one of my favorite grocery stores anywhere. It’s not the cheapest, by any means, and sticker shock is something to prepare yourself for when you arrive, but we can walk there, still watch for bargains, and always find fresh, locally-caught fish.
The new trend in groceries on the island are at the big, Kohala coast resorts. With so many new vacation homes and condos, as well as vacation ownership resorts (a.k.a. timeshares), the 6-mile, or more, drive up to our village just wouldn’t do any longer. KTA and ABC Stores, the local chain of souvenir shops, both owned by the same three brothers, opened Island Gourmet in the new Queen’s Shops, a fancy shopping center just across the street from the long-established King’s Shops. Further down the road, Foodland opened The Farms at a similar shopping center built near the Mauna Lani and Fairmont Orchid. Both are impressive little operations, stocked with an eye for international tastes, but the Island Gourmet is architecturally stunning.
As you would imagine, these shopping centers are filled with the island’s high-end stores and restaurants, giving guests the impression that they aren’t trapped in their very high-end resorts. With all their amenities, it would be easy to imagine that many guests would feel little reason to wander far from their rooms (that, of course, would be tragic). Tommy Bahama and Ruth’s Chris have restaurants at the Mauna Lani Resorts. Roy’s and Merriman’s are at the King’s Shops (in fairness, these are truly the best “local restaurants,” even though Outback introduced Roy’s to the mainland).
The big news is the new sushi and seafood restaurant at the Queen’s Shops called Sansei. It’s getting rave reviews and I’m thinking it might become one of my new favorites. The really big news is that they’re opening a Romano’s Macaroni Grill at Queen’s. Yes, you heard correctly, mediocrity is arriving soon. Still, I kind of like the place and plan to be present for their grand opening on Monday.
It’s clear that the big names are struggling in the faltering economy too. While entrée prices start in the high $30 range, each of these big-ticket restaurants are advertising prix-fix or sunset (a.k.a. Early Bird) specials to entice patrons. They’re also offering discounts to the locals a couple of nights a week. I’m hard-pressed not to consider these opportunities for a big night out. I’m thinking I’d like to try that Tommy Bahama’s restaurant.
Thankfully, there are other, cheaper ways to grocery shop or eat. The farmers’ markets here are legendary, and there are plenty of colorful, local joints that offer plenty of filling food at reasonable prices. The big markets are on Wednesday and Saturday mornings in Kona and Hilo, though there are smaller markets throughout the island and on different days. I think the most famous market is in Hilo. It certainly attracts the largest number of vendors, locals and visitors and is legitimately a tourist attraction. To be sure, it is something of a third-world experience. English is definitely a second language among most of the vendors, but they have mastered calling out, “one dollar!” Here you will find both familiar fruits and vegetables, as well as alien-looking species at prices too cheap not to go ahead and give them a try. The rambatan is a fruit of science fiction, red and hairy on the outside, squishy opaque white on the inside. It tastes fine, but the whole experience is a little unsettling. I still don’t see what the locals see in the wing beans though. Bottom line is that for about $10, you can fill a large shopping bag with enough fresh fruit and vegetable to last a week
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